The journal · field notes from Morocco
No top-10 listicles. Slow, opinionated dispatches from the atelier on when to come, where to go first, what to skip and how to spend your dirhams well. Read before you book — and certainly before you pack.
This month's long-read
One slow, in-house piece every month. No commissioned writers, no sponsored takes — just the answers we already give our guests on WhatsApp, written down properly.
Latest field note 9 min readMarrakech · June 2026
Most people try to do Marrakech in 36 hours and leave exhausted. Here is the three-day rhythm we recommend for first-timers — the medina, Majorelle, an Atlas day, what to skip and where to eat.
The archive
Re-read every season by our team. If anything is out of date we annotate it at the top of the piece — Morocco changes slowly, but it does change.
02Desert 10 minDesert · June 2026
Merzouga or Zagora? Standard or luxury? We map the trade-offs in distance, dunes, silence and price — and what a night under canvas actually includes — with the camps we still send guests to.
03Practical 8 minPractical · June 2026
The etiquette and the mechanics of bargaining — fair price ranges, the phrases that help, what's actually fixed-price, the set-ups to sidestep, and why walking away is your strongest move.
04Practical 6 minPractical · May 2026
Guides, drivers, riads, camps, restaurants — who to tip, how much, and in what currency. The honest, no-guesswork numbers we give our own guests before every trip.
05Fes 10 minFes · June 2026
The world's largest car-free urban area is a 13th-century city still running in real time. The tanneries, the Qarawiyyin, the art of getting pleasantly lost — and when to hire a guide.
06Food 9 minFood · June 2026
Bessara at dawn, mechoui, seven-vegetable couscous on a Friday, the street-food stalls worth queuing for — what to order, where, and how to eat well whatever your diet.
07Atlas 7 minAtlas · June 2026
Imlil, the Ourika valley, Berber villages and waterfalls are an hour from the Red City. What a good day actually looks like — and the tourist traps to drive past.
08Coast 7 minCoast · June 2026
Three hours from Marrakech, the Atlantic's most likeable town — fortified ramparts, a working fishing port, kitesurf wind and a music soul. How to spend a perfect 48 hours.
09Planning 9 minPlanning · June 2026
The honest, current picture — solo and women travellers, the common souk set-ups, which areas to know about, health and the road. What we actually tell our own guests.
10Practical 7 minPractical · June 2026
No 'breathable convertible trousers'. A real packing list that changes with the month and the route — medina, mountains, coast and desert all ask for different things.
11Planning 8 minPlanning · June 2026
Daily spend, where the money goes and the honest ways to save without missing the point of the trip — with sample budgets in USD for shoestring, mid-range and comfortable.
12Marrakech 7 minMarrakech · June 2026
What a riad actually is, which neighbourhoods suit which travellers, and what to look for before you book — so you get the courtyard, the calm and the location right.
13Itineraries 11 minItineraries · June 2026
The classic one-week loop, day by day — Marrakech, the High Atlas, Aït Ben Haddou, the Dades, the Merzouga dunes and Fes — with honest drive times and what to skip.
14Practical 8 minPractical · June 2026
Road conditions, police checkpoints, city parking, fuel and the real cost trade-off — and why most of our guests end up with a private driver instead of a rental.
15Culture 6 minCulture · June 2026
Why it's poured from a height, what 'Berber whisky' means, how it's brewed and the etiquette of accepting a glass — the small ceremony at the heart of Moroccan hospitality.
16Desert 8 minDesert · June 2026
The UNESCO earthen citadel south of the Atlas — its history, the films shot there (Gladiator to Game of Thrones), and how to visit properly from Marrakech or Ouarzazate.
17Marrakech 9 minMarrakech · June 2026
Rugs, leather, lanterns, ceramics and argan — where to find the real thing in the medina, how to bargain without stress, and how to get it all home.
18Family 9 minFamily · June 2026
Where to go, how to pace it, the riads that work for families, camel rides and food kids will actually eat — the practical things we tell parents before they come.
19North 7 minNorth · June 2026
Why it's painted blue, what to actually do there, day trip versus overnight, the best photo spots and how to get to the Rif's most photogenic town.
20Culture 8 minCulture · June 2026
From the blue lanes of Chefchaouen to the dunes of Merzouga and the kasbahs of the south — where to shoot, when the light is right, and the etiquette of the lens.
21Desert 8 minDesert · June 2026
Big dunes and a longer drive, or accessible desert closer to Marrakech? We compare Erg Chebbi and the Zagora/Chigaga route on dunes, drive time, crowds and cost.
22Culture 8 minCulture · June 2026
Gnaoua in Essaouira, the rose festival in the Dades, sacred music in Fes, moussems and Ramadan — the events worth planning a trip around, month by month.
23Desert 7 minDesert · June 2026
Camel arrival, the tents, dinner under the stars, the cold nights, the sunrise on the dunes — and the difference between a standard and a luxury Sahara camp.
24Food 9 minFood · June 2026
Jemaa el-Fnaa stalls, the best tagine and tangia, where locals actually eat, street snacks, and the rooftop tables worth the splurge — how to eat well in the Red City.
25North 8 minNorth · March 2025
When to visit Chefchaouen, month by month: typical Rif-mountain weather, the green spring and golden autumn shoulder seasons, the best light for photographing the blue walls, and crowd and Ramadan tips.
26North 7 minNorth · March 2025
An honest area guide to where to stay in Chefchaouen: inside the blue medina, around Plaza Uta el-Hammam, the upper town near the Spanish mosque, or just outside the old town with parking — with the trade-offs of each.
27Food 7 minFood · March 2025
A local food guide to Chefchaouen: fresh goat cheese (jben), bissara fava-bean soup, Rif olives and olive oil, goat tagines, mountain honey and mint tea on a blue terrace — the simple, mountain-fresh cooking of the blue city.
28Practical 7 minPractical · March 2025
How to reach Chefchaouen — which has no airport or train station — by CTM/Supratours bus, shared grand taxi or transfer from Tangier, Fès or Tetouan, plus how to get around the steep, car-free blue medina entirely on foot.
29Practical 7 minPractical · March 2025
Honest things to know before visiting Chefchaouen: the famous blue lanes get busy midday, so go early or near sunset; it's a small, steep, cobbled mountain town; pack layers as it's cooler than the lowlands; bring cash; and dress modestly.
30Planning 7 minPlanning · April 2025
How many days do you need in Chefchaouen? An honest trip-length guide for a small Rif mountain town: the half-day or day trip, the one-night sweet spot, and when 2–3 days (and the Akchour waterfalls) are worth it.
31Planning 7 minPlanning · June 2026
Is Chefchaouen worth the trip — and worth the long drive from Fes or Marrakech? An honest take on who should go, who should skip it, whether the blue city is a tourist trap, and how to make the detour earn its place.
32North 7 minNorth · April 2025
The blue city at its coldest, dampest and quietest: cool Rif-mountain days, misty mornings, occasional snow on the peaks, far fewer crowds and lower prices. What to expect, the heating question, the Akchour caveat and how to pack.
33North 8 minNorth · April 2025
A slow, photogenic mountain escape for two: blue lanes hand in hand, sunset over the whole blue city from the Spanish Mosque, boutique riads with rooftop terraces, candle-lit Rif dinners and easy nature together — with an honest take on the small, quiet pace.
34North 8 minNorth · June 2026
Already staying in the blue city? The best excursions from Chefchaouen, ranked: the Akchour waterfalls and God's Bridge, Talassemtane National Park, Tetouan's UNESCO medina, the Mediterranean coast and the Rif forests — with honest drive times and how to get there.
35North 6 minNorth · June 2026
Mondays and Thursdays the Rif comes down the mountain to sell. Where the open-air market sets up below the medina, what's on the stalls — goat cheese, figs, honey, wool — when to go, and the camera etiquette.
Letters from Marrakech
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